Fort Myers Beach to the Keys with Mishaps in Between

Departing Fort Myers Beach (FMB), boats have to go outside for roughly 25 miles to reach Naples and 40 miles to reach Marco Island.   We departed FMB just after dawn as conditions were supposed to worsen as the day progressed.  

Molly graciously got in the dinghy.

What began as 1-foot waves every 3 seconds became 2-footers, soon to be 3-footers, as we approached Gordon Pass, the inlet for Naples.  Our ride was becoming uncomfortable, and I steered Salty Paws into Gordon Pass so we could take the shallow inside waterway from there down to Marco Island. (We had already visited Naples on our earlier cruise.) This waterway is not recommended for boats that draw more than 3.5 feet.

We only draw 2.5 feet, but even that was too much, if one doesn’t stay in the channel!  As I approached one turn, I mistook a pole with orange tape as a channel marker and we were quickly aground in roughly 2 feet of water.  Reverse got us no where, nor did the trick of moving first Molly and then both of us to the bow.  The next course of action was to get weight off Salty Paws.  We lowered the dinghy with its motor off the roof into the water.  Unfortunately, being 150 pounds lighter wasn’t enough.  

Now we needed to load additional weight into the dinghy.  As I scanned the options, I turned and suggestively looked at Molly.  Now, if anything, she is svelte, but any weight is weight!  Molly climbed down into the dinghy, and I went back to the helm putting the motor again into to reverse.  Voila, Salty Paws was free from the bottom!

Salty Paws in Smokehouse Bay 

Finally, we reached well-protected Smokehouse Bay in the middle of Marco Island, and we anchored in the southern end in order to be close to the Winn Dixie dinghy dock.  Tory was ready for a pee break, and she and I soon dinghied over to Winn Dixie.  Alas, while the dock had ladders, it was 5 feet high, too high for me to safely lift Tory up from our dinghy.  Now what?  We dinghied back to Salty Paws where I dropped off our confused dog.  I then motored over to nearby Esplanade Marina to explore using one of their docks.

As I arrived at Esplanade, I saw our buddy boat Navigator with Jon and Liz.  They had left FMB after us and went outside the entire way since Navigstor draws 4.5 feet.   Once Joe, the Harbormaster, finished helping secure Navigator, I explained my dilemma with Tory.   Joe was a very understanding dog-lover and granted use of their dinghy dock for the duration of our stay.  He even pointed out where the best grass was!

Over the next three days we explored much of Marco Island.  The almost 

We walked almost 3 miles before
finding public beach access.

picture-perfect island is full developed with high-rise condominiums and resorts along its white-sand beach and its 100 miles of canals lined large houses.   Sidewalks are wide to accommodate walkers and bikers.  Everyone seems to be from away with the population predominately snowbirds.  In the middle of the island we found a large 6-story, climate-controlled building used to 

Typical house on a canal.

store cars of snowbirds when they are away or  head north for the summer as the population plummets from 40,000 to 16,000.

Liz, Jon, Molly and I visited a local restaurant and
particularly enjoyed a nearby the ice cream shop.

The Marco Island Harbor Master was
Pleased to see our composting toilet.

Finally, warmer weather is returning to Florida, and we won’t be seeing any more temps in the 40’s before our return to Maine in early spring. Navigator and Salty Paws left Marco Island together, continuing our journey south.  Most boats go outside around Marco Island to reach the 10,000 Islands because of shallow depths, but with our shallow-draft Salty Paws as the lead boat and with an incoming tide, we had no problems.

Molly, Liz and Tory on Panther Key.

Our next night was a very pleasant anchorage off Panther Key, which has a nice beach for walking Tory.  We shared a fine dinner on Navigator and then slept soundly.  All was well until early the next morning when Tory has clearly desperate for a pee and had an accident.  While Molly cleaned up the mess, Tory and I got in the dinghy to go ashore.  Then I noticed that our boat (and an unsuspecting Molly!) were drifting very slowly. 

A quick calculation suggested that I could get Tory ashore for her relief and then return to Salty Paws to address the next emergency.  As I attempted to rush Tory through her paces, I speculated that our anchor had become detached and our 80-feet of chain out was now acting as an ineffective anchor.

Beautiful sunsets and sunrises help me recover from any
mishap.

Once back on Salty Paws, I asked a surprised Molly to take the helm while I went to the bow. We had drifted way beyond Navigator and thankfully did not collide with her. I was surprised to  find our anchor still attached at the end of the chain!  Here is what I surmised had happened.  Attached to the front of our anchor is a separate line that goes to a floating buoy.  We have used this setup countless times as it clearly marks where the anchor is, and can also be used to dislodge or pull up an anchor that gets caught on a rock or debris on the bottom.  In the changing current and winds, this line had gotten tangled on our propeller or depth gauge and as our boat swung, the line further tangled around the anchor and actually pulled the anchor out on it’s side.  We will not use this setup again.

On New Turkey Key.

 

The 10,000 Islands are beautiful even if there are only a few hundred.  After leaving Panther Key we soon entered Everglades National Park and cruised 25 miles south to another great anchorage off New Turkey Key.  Once again the shallow draft Salty Paws led the way in the channel to help Navigator find sufficient depth to anchor.

40 miles further south put us off Cape Sable and it’s 6 miles of pristine beach.  This is one of the least visited and most beautiful places in Florida.  We spent two idyllic nights there off Mid-Cape as the winds and waves were light or off the shore.  The pictures below tell the story best. 

From Cape Sable we were only 80 miles from Key West.  We cruised half way to Cudjoe Channel and an anchorage right off Tarpon Belly Key, one of the few islands with shore access for Tory.  The next day through the fog we arrived in Key West with a slip for a week at Galleon Marina.  After some minor repairs and R & R, we hope for a weather window to go to Dry Tortugas.

The Celebrity Cruise line ships dominates the Key West waterfront as we approach the harbor.

Maybe we should just go on to Cuba!