Cruising on Salty Paws: February 2020

Our visit to the primary school in Red Bays with the
descendants of Seminole Indians.

The last 20 miles of our 104-mile trip from North Bimini to Andros were particularly rough as the increasing seas off our beam now rocked the boat energetically. I did not adequately sense Molly’s fear and plowed ahead to get into the Morgan’s Bluff, the one semi-decent harbor on the island. There are no marina or cruising facilities here, but two friendly fishermen helped us tie up to the high, rough concrete pier next to the bar and gas station, the only commercial establishments within walking distance.

The small harbor included 20 or so boats made

The fishermen here helped us tie up at the pier.

up of local fishing trawlers, some dilapidated hulls, a few sports fishing boats, two sailboats from Canada (one had us over for a great conch salad dinner) and a 120-foot mega-yacht where a wealthy couple lives along with their multiple rescued stray dogs. This eclectic mix certainly had us curious as to what we would find on the island.

Andros is the largest island in the Bahamas, but home to only 8,000 people. Perhaps, 10-15% of this total is due of the US Navy’s Atlantic Underwater and Evaluation Center (AUTEC) in central Andros. The proximity to Cuba is part of the attraction, for sure, but also that the Tongue of the Ocean off Andros has depths that reach 6,000 feet within just a few miles of shore.

Docked in the inner harbor,
Morgan's Bluff.

The Island has the 3^rd largest barrier reef in the world, but it is not a big tourist or cruising destination except for its few "resorts" specializing in bone fishing and diving. There are very few harbors, no good anchorages and limited accommodations. Nonetheless, Molly and I like destinations off the beaten path, and we were particularly interested in visiting the island’s remote settlement founded by Seminole Indians.

We didn't find any treasure in
Henry Morgan's Cave.

The Seminole story is both tragic and uplifting. The U.S. Government waged a 50-year, often gruesome campaign from roughly 1812 to the Civil War to relocate or eradicate the Seminole Indians of Florida in order to use their lands for whites. The Seminoles were a conglomeration of various tribes that had been forced out of other Southern states and also included runaway slaves. Beginning around 1821 some of the Seminoles fled across the Gulf Stream from Florida to Andros Island in the Bahamas. Here they established a settlement, now called Red Bays, and lived undetected for over 100 years!

Morgan's Bluff.

Crawling out of the
last section of the cave.

Other than a nice walk to the purported cave of pirate Henry Morgan and the Bluff, we needed a tour guide to experience Andros. I had made a series of calls, starting with the Ministry of Tourism in Nassau, that ultimately led us to meeting Eugene Campbell. We had arrived on Friday afternoon (1/24), and Eugene drove to meet us on Saturday at the exact time he said he would be there for us to talk through options.

Our first day with Eugene Campbell included
a tour of the one-of-a-kind Pineville Motel.

Boy, he can talk. He is a wealth of knowledge and one of the most charming people we have met in all of our travels. In addition to being a tour guide, he is the owner of the Pineville Motel that includes his own zoo, a stage, inside and outside dance floor, a bunk room, club house and more. It is also a motel, but he mostly caters to school and organizational groups that visit the island from throughout the Bahamas and the States. Eugene is a big Andros promoter and often films island events to make and distribute DVDs. A couple of hours into our conversation, we finally put together our itinerary for Sunday and Monday.

Eugene and Molly in front of the
Mt. Phisgah Trinity Baptist Church.

Eugene had explained to us the difference between American time (on time) and Bahamian time (up to an hour late). Once again he arrived on American time Sunday to take us to the Mt. Phisgah Baptist Church.

At 2 hours and 20 minutes, this was by far the longest church service that Molly and I have ever attended, but the service was enthralling. Other than the sermon a couple of scripture readings, the service was all music from beginning to end. Three church members played the electric guitar, bass and drums respectively, and singers ranged from individuals to youth choir to male quartet. Throughout, the congregation often sang along and clapped or swayed to the beat. Their love of

The service was mostly in song.

God, Jesus and each other flowed throughout the service. On four occasions our presence was acknowledged, and at the end of the service virtually the entire congregation greeted and hugged us.

On Monday (1/27) Eugene picked us up promptly again for our 20-mile drive across the island to Red Bays, the only settlement on the west side of Andros.

We were entertained at the school with song and prayer.

We first arrived at the Barton A. Norton Primary School to attend the school assembly that included the students singing songs, mostly religious, the principal beseeching them to do their best and the presentation of cash awards from a local organization to top students. Then both Molly and I were warmly greeted and invited to address the students and make our contribution of school supplies.
We left the school, and Eugene drove us through the poor, rural community of around 400 residents, many living in very basic housing without running water or plumbing. The men are primarily fishermen or laborers while the women made beautiful baskets from the local silver palm.

Some of the wonderful work of
basket weaver Joan.

We visited two houses and purchased three basket items, two of which were further decorated with batik.

Water here is from a dug
well.

We then left Red Bays and made vegetable purchases from both the government farm store and the Mennonite Farm store. While at the Mennonite Farm, I had a nice chat with one of the men who moved to Andros with his family 10 years ago.

Some of the children in the
Mennonite community.

The Mennonite community now numbers around 50. He noted that the work was hard as the rough soil does not retain nutrients, but the community is well-supported with Mennonites from the States during some of the winter months as working on Andros is akin to a vacation.

Our time with Eugene was at an end as he brought us back to Salty Paws. Warm hugs and thanks were soon followed by a repeat visit as he brought us the pineapple we were not able to find at the farm stand.

We had to depart by 6 am the next morning as our docking spot was needed by one of the fishing boats. Sunrise was still an hour away so we went very slowly out of the harbor. The seas were calm and as the sun rose, Salty Paws headed south down the inner channel between the barrier reef and Andros to Fresh Creek, 38 miles away.

We dropped of a tub of school supplies
at the Fresh Creek Primary School.

At the Government Pier in Fresh Creek.

Our tour of the Androsia Batik Factory.
The wall is filled with handmade stamp
molds.

The inner passage is off limits to all but shallow draft boats as there are a number of coral heads, some only a few feet below the surface. We confirmed with more than one local fisherman that we should have no problem as Salty Paws only draws two feet. That proved the case, and we arrived at Fresh Creek mid-day. Here we tied up to the high fixed pier Government Dock and paid our $6.40 to spend the night. That afternoon we visited the Fresh Creek Primary School for our third and final school supply gift and toured the Androsia Batik Factory. Molly picked up some fabric scraps for use in the rugs that she has been making. Then, at 7 pm, there is a voice on the pier. Eugene has arrived to take us to dinner at Sammy’s. We had a great time and were enthralled listening to Sammy and watching him make the conch salad from the shell to the table.

Sammy made our ultra fresh
conch salad right in front of us.

The people we met in Andros were so kind, warm and helpful. Many are quite educated, either formally or self-taught. The Island has been impacted many times by hurricanes in recent years and has had trouble recovering financially. People are resourceful in making a living and we found many to be quite entrepreneurial.

At 7:15 am the next morning we cruised out of Fresh Creek for our 65 mile crossing to the Exumas.