Bimini Pirates became Entrepreneurs

Map of the Great Loop.

The Great Loop is a 6,000 mile journey around the Eastern United

Our gold burgee indicates that we
have completed the Great Loop.

States and parts of Canada.  The term "crossing one's wake" refers to a boat that has made the full circle as you in theory must cross the wake created by your boat when you first started.  Not many get to cross their wake in the Bahamas and still be 1,500 miles from home. Molly and I on Salty Paws did it this week in Bimini! Three years ago we went down the east coast from Maine to Key Biscayne and crossed to Bimini and other Bahamian points. Then last July, after retiring, we left Maine again and cruised down to NYC and then up the Hudson to complete the rest of the Great Loop. After the Keys we kept a southernly route so as not to cross our wake until reaching Bimini. 

In Bimini one of the first people we met was Ashley Saunders, writer, artist, historian and creator of the Dolphin House made of hand-built walls covered with an eclectic mix of shells, license plates and knickknacks from people across the globe. Ashley has been building the house since 1993 and is the Island's renaissance man.   He described how his ancestors came to Bimini almost 200 years ago. 

Molly in front of the
Dolphin House.

 His father was a descendant of a Scottish pirate and his mother from a former slave.  Bimini was, in fact, a melting pot for the mistreated, adventure seekers, discontents and malcontents as it

One of the rooms at Dolphin House.

was only 50 miles from the US mainland, adjacent to the main shipping channel, semi-lawless and with many shallow coves and mangroves for hiding, if necessary.

Ashley and Molly on the roof of his house.

In the 18^th century pirates were able to attack and plunder ships, and the profession became slightly more respectable in the 19^th century as former pirates become opportunists when ships struck the reefs that dot the Bimini coast.  Ashley described how his great grandfather and his men took control of large wooden cargo ship that had run aground.  He gave the captain the choice of saving the crew in exchange for all the cargo or just leaving the crew and still taking all the cargo.  The goods were brought ashore and made his great grandfather a wealthy man.  Many of the ship’s former crew became island residents. 

Behind Molly is one of the many ships that did not leave
the Bahamas intact.

Nominally under the control of Great Britain, slavery was outlawed here in 1834, and even before that the island beckoned African slaves who had mutinied on boats bound for the US.  In the early 20^th century Bimini attracted foreigners for gambling and booze, particularly during the US prohibition.  People of all nationalities

also came here seeking entry to the US.  While much less prevalent today, there are still stories of American speed boat captains being paid a few thousand dollars a head to bring illegals to the United States.

Before European arrival in the New World, Lucayan Indians populated and prospered in what is now called the Bahamas.  Columbus landed on the now Bahamian island he named San Salvador in 1492, and by 1520 or so Spanish conquest, enslavement and disease stripped the islands of all Lucayans.  Spain maintained nominal control over the islands until ceded them to Great Britain in 1783.  The Islands become independent in 1973.

On the streets in Alice Town.

Bahamian waters have a color unto
their own.

We arrived here on January 19^th and immediately fell in love with North Bimini, and its boroughs of Alice Town, Bailey Town and Porgy Bay.  The residents along the narrow streets greet everyone with a warm hello, and more than one person offered us rides when we were caught by a sudden rain or when we were carrying a donation of supplies to the local primary school.  There is a strong entrepreneurial spirit seen in offers of fresh fish, delivered meals and tours.

Aaron is a great example of this local spirit as he greeted us warmly and suggested that we tour the island museum that he directs. 

Molly with Aaron.  Was he really
the museum director?

He gave us a great tour, and then as I was about to put $10 in the donation box, he suggested that I give it to him directly in that sometime thieves are tempted by this receptacle.   Later, in describing this to another Bahamian, we learned that Aaron is not the director at all!  The tour was still worth the $10.

Here is the Fountain of Youth.

One day we walked virtually every road on the island (9 miles) and also checked out the mega resort development on the north end of the island anchored by a Hilton, casino and marina.  Seemly, hundreds of large 4 and 6 bedroom, 4 .5 bath condominiums are under construction.  There is also a new large pier that will soon attract cruise ships.  We much prefer the

This is the Hilton and some of the
 fancy docks at the northern
end of North Bimini.

 local boroughs with the narrow streets, small shops and eclectic buildings, some still uninhabitable due to multiple hurricanes.

One of the beaches in
South Bimini.

Another day we along with our dockmates on Morning Dew took the $3 ferry to South Bimini , only a ¼ mile across the harbor.  We wanted to find the Fountain of Youth, thought to be the water found by Ponce de Leon in the 16^th century.  Alas, it was only a small well and not much of a legitimate tourist attraction!

Before our trip to Bimini we spend a week in Islamorada on the Keys and became acquainted with the Netflix show Bloodline that was filmed here, including at our marina. 

Snorkeling in the Keys.

While we enjoyed identifying local areas in the show, its dark plot was too much for us.  We did enjoy snorkeling

off John Pennekemp Coral Reef State Park.  Salty Paws then spent two days in Homestead as we prepared for our two months

Enjoying the world's most eclectic fruit stand, Robert was Here,
along with Melissa and Mike.

in the Bahamas.  There we were met by 

Rosborough friends Melissa and Mike who treated us to the local attractions including Robert 

was Here.  Look it up as it is an interesting story!

Looks like Friday (1/24) will be our next weather window, and we hope to reach Morgan’s Bluff, Andros Island, 100 miles away, for a few days before going on to the Exumas.  Andros is one of the poorer islands, and we hope to leave school supplies at two different schools.

We left a box of school supplies with the
principal of Bimini Primary School.

Bimini Elementary School.

Our first morning in the Bahamas.

Trapped in the Everglades

On the Buttonwood Canal near Flamingo.

As we approached Flamingo via the Everglades Wilderness Waterway, an unexpected low bridge came into view.  A quick look at the chart showed 10’ of clearance, roughly matching the minimum height of our boat.  I quickly handed the helm to Molly and went on the roof to lower antennas, the anchor light and the dinghy davit.  Fortunately, the persistent north winds had reduced the water levels in the Everglades, and we passed under the bridge with ease.

Just as I was counting our blessings, however, we came to Flamingo and found a dam that completely blocked our access to Florida Bay and Keys.  The charts showed a boat lift to get over the dam, but the lift has not operated since Hurricane Andrew came through in 1992.  Seemingly, we were cooked, and would have to turn around and add another two days to our trip.  And, if the wind shifted direction, we might even be trapped in Flamingo forever!

The dam at Flamingo.

As Captain and Navigator of Salty Paws, I admit that I erred in not reading the charts thoroughly enough.  If I had fully understood the roadblocks, we might not have come this route. 

Cocktail hour in the Little Shark River.

Until this point, however, our off-the-grid cruise had been magical and one of the best parts of our journey.  We left Everglades City, accompanied by dolphins, and motored off shore 40 miles or so until we could cut in and anchor in the Little Shark River, smack in the middle of the Everglades wilderness.  Our anchor was set mid-afternoon, and we spent an early and extended cocktail hour on the bow of Salty Paws in awe of our surroundings.

We saw eagles, a swirling column of over 40 hawks soaring about the River, a few pelicans in formation and hundreds of ibis flying up-river at the end of their fishing day.  An unidentified bird, perhaps an owl, hooted from the shore.  This was all topped by a manatee that swam right by Salty Paws as the waxing gibbous moon was rising and visible in the late afternoon.  

Hawks overhead.

Our camera was slow to capture the
manatee going by Salty paws.

Sunset on the Little Shark

Evening came and the sky alight with stars even with the moon and a slight glow on the eastern horizon from the greater Miami area, 60 or so miles away.  We confirmed seeing Mars using the great SkyView app.  All the other planets as well as the International Space Station and the Hubble Telescope were below the horizon.   The waters calmed, and we were engulfed in silence.

We got up long before the sunrise to see, again, what nature would present to us.  Temperatures had dropped to 55 degrees, and Venus was now visible in the clear sky.  Soon the same birds that had flown upriver were now headed out to the Gulf for another day of fishing.  A second manatee briefly came up for a breath.

Tides on the Florida west coast vary greatly in terms of
timing and height.  Some places only have one high tide
per day, some have three.

 After our first hot oatmeal breakfast in a long time, we raised anchor and headed upstream to connect with the last 25 miles of the 100-mile Everglades Wilderness Waterway.  We had been discouraged from following the Waterway because of depths, and it is mostly used by canoes, kayaks and small, open motor boats.  Fortunately, Salty Paws draws less than 2.5 feet, and maybe only 2.1 feet as our depth meter read between 2.1 and 6 feet for most all of this passage.  We were completely surrounded by wilderness, a few birds and frequently jumping fish in the muddy, shallow waters.

Kayaking up the Creek to Mud Lake.

We were now using our small 9.9 hp kicker motor, sparing our large 250 hp motor from possibly hitting bottom.  Our average speed was only 4 mph, but we picked our way through Whitewater Bay and into Coots Bay.  Now, we were only 5 miles from Flamingo, but we decided to anchor in the 3.5 feet of water, and enjoy one last afternoon and night of solitude.  We launched our tandem kayak and paddled slowly up through a tree-filled creek to Mud Lake.  Here we observed the largest confluence of heron, ibis, eagles and other birds that we have ever witnessed.

The next morning we are off to Flamingo, get under the bridge and are now stymied by the dam.  It is roughly 10 am.  Flamingo, or at least the part that we can see, only includes a Park Visitors Center and a marina store, between two sets of docks, walls, boat ramps and parking lots. 

I didn't realize that America has
crocodiles!

One side is for access to/from the Everglades, and the other side for access to/from Florida Bay and the Gulf.  In the water we observe American crocodiles and a number of manatees.

I track down some of the local charter boat captains and one of the park rangers.  They all suggest that we might be able to find someone with a trailer who could haul us out on the Everglades side and launch us on the Bay side.  Unfortunately, they also say that Park regulations prohibit their using any of their trailers.

One of the many manatees at Flamingo.

Both parking lots are filled with parked trucks, almost all pulling 1-axle trailers for small, open fishing boats.  I do find two questionable 2-axle trailers and one beautiful 3-axle trailer that could definitely hold Salty Paws.  I leave notes of our predicament in the door handle of each related truck.  Every hour or so, I walk through the parking lot.  At 3:00 pm, one of the trailers is now gone, leaving just two possibilities.  We are now resigned to the likelihood that tomorrow we will be retracing our steps and also to the possibility that stronger winds later in the week might even delay our travels further.

At 4:00 pm Molly and I are walking over to the Visitors Center, and a boat, similar in size to Salty Paws, is approaching the boat ramp for take-out.  I scan the parking lot and notice a truck pulling the 3-axle trailer is headed to us.  The boat owner must have seen our note, but it has likely been a long day of fishing, and he and his crew were ready to go home.  I approached the truck, made reference to my note and asked for his help. 

We are on our way!

An hour later, Capt. John Prahl, his brother and friend were headed back to Miami after expertly moving Salty Paws from one body of water to the other.

Once again we are blessed, but there remains one more challenge.  The next morning we depart an hour before a super low tide, and we should have left prior to dawn.  The passage between Flamingo and Florida Bay is narrow and shallow, and within a mile of Flamingo we find ourselves aground in the mud.  Our depth meter reads 1.5 feet.  We enjoy our coffee, play cards and watch the tide continuing to go out.  Now there are wide exposed flats only 20 feet away on both sides of the boat.  Finally, the tide turns, and 2 hours later, we are able to edge forward. 

Molly on the bow as we navigate shallow water.

Early morning in Flamingo.

One of the dolphins that
escorted us out of Flamingo.

Once out of the narrow channel, dolphins are on both sides of the boat.  Soon we speed up and make the 40-mile trek to the Florida Keys in two hours.  The weather forecast is now calling for 20-30 knot winds over the next several days.  We decide to stay at the Choral Bay Marina in Islamorada on Upper Matecumbe Key for the next week and check out the Conch lifestyle. 

We are quickly liking the Conch lifestyle!

We visited the World Wide Sprtsman store in Islamorada and
toured the half-sister boat to the one owned by Earnest
Hemingway.

New Friends, Old Friends and Gators

 We have now completed 5,000 miles of our almost 8,000 mile journey.  Along the way we have met wonderful people making new friends and reconnecting with old friends.

I am between Mark and
Happy at the world's best
food truck.

Jody and Tom next to Braveheart.

Our trip down the Florida west coast included wonderful visits with new Rosborough (maker of Salty Paws) friends. We met Bahama-born Jacquie in Tarpon Springs.  She gave us some great cruising suggestions about “don’t miss” places.  Mark and Happy met us for dinner in Dunedin and the next day prepared a great lunch for us at their fantastic food truck, Happy’s Bayou Bites, that features delicious Cajun style food.  The fried oysters were to die for.  Jody and Tom hosted Salty Paws at their dock next to Braveheart, their Rosborough used to complete the Loop a year ago. 

Wendy and Bob next to their boat
Cloud Nine and Salty Paws.

Finally, we spend a wonderful evening with Bob and Wendy in North Fort Meyers while Bob took the lead in helping Bill install new door slides, just in time for us to avoid losing our side doors overboard!

In front of a Tarpon Springs sponge
boat with Duane and Diana.

New friends also included Loopers Duane and Diana on their boat Bella Donna.  We had done the Gulf crossing with them and were pleased to share meals in Tarpon Springs, on each of our boats and the restaurant on Cabbage Key, made famous by Jimmy Buffet, who, after a great cheeseburger, wrote Cheeseburger in Paradise. 

Adding our dollar bill at
Cabbage Key Inn. $10,000
drops off each year and is
given to charity.

NYE - Burkes, Geants & Websters.

Old Maine friends included Sue and Allan who hosted us for 4 days over Christmas on Cape Coral and took us for a wonderful kayak paddle on Sanibel.  In Naples we ran into fellow Indian Pointer at the dock, and Lee and Jane later hosted us for dinner.  We spent New Year’s Eve with the Burkes and Geants, old friends from Bill's Hannaford days.

Kayaking with Sue and Allan.

Our stops included Caladesi State Park and Cayo Costa State Park, barrier islands off the coast.  Like many of the places we’ve been, the water was shallow and would not be passable for a deep draft boat.  Our shallow draft allows us to go many places that larger boats cannot go.  On both islands we walked down beautiful, deserted white sand beaches on the Gulf and gathered shells. 

On the deserted beach at Caladesi.

Wind and waves occasionally plagued our travels.  We were able to find the only open slip in well-protected Dunedin Municipal Marina as we waited out two days of 20-30 knot winds.  It was also very windy when we anchored in Gulfport, and it cut our visit to the funky town short, but we were able to finish our Christmas postcards.  The wind was also ferocious as we approached the dock at Cayo Costa and we struggled to tie up.  I was concerned for a moment that we would not be able to hold the boat to the dock before tying our lines and Salty Paws would take a lonely journey.  Just as we got settled, our new friends, Duane and Diana, glided in behind us without any trouble. Lesson learned about getting the bow secured first in high winds. We had them over for dinner and had a rousing card game of Old Hell.  

The shells were everywhere
at Cayo Costa.

Too many of the waves are brought about by fellow boaters.  No offense meant, but the boaters in Florida seem insane.  Speed limits are often 25-35 mph in the boat channels and the boats are doing all of that, creating huge and very uncomfortable wakes.  We battled the wakes into Naples, 2^nd in the nation in millionaires per capita.

Double rainbows greeted us as we arrived in Naples.

Pelicans greeted us at the Naples
dinghy dock.

We relaxed for 4 days in a mooring field and explored the ritzy downtown, Tin City and the food trucks at Celebration Park that included Cousins Lobster from Maine.  We also left early enough on New Year’s to miss the speed boats.

Kayaking in the 10,000 Islands
surrounded by mangroves
and oyster beds.

The weather has now turned glorious (sorry fellow Mainers and other Yankees!) and the seas have calmed.  After Naples, we anchored in the 10,000 Islands, part of Everglades National Park.  We were mostly alone, except for two boats that were being boarded by the Park Police.  We found out the next day from the very friendly police that the captain of one of these boats was now in the slammer for, let’s say, unlawful movement of certain substances.  Anyway, we had a very peaceful, still night at anchor.   We took two kayak trips through the maze of Islands, with Captain Bill always aware of where our boat was. In the morning, I spotted a mama raccoon and her two young ones carefully maneuvering along the shore on the mangrove roots.  We also saw many beautiful shore birds, including ibis, herons, eagles and osprey.

The iconic but slowly dying
Rod & Gun Club.

The next day begins one of our top experiences. We weaved our way through the mangrove islands, accompanied by dolphins and pelicans, to Everglades City (pop. 426) and docked alongside the historic Rod & Gun Club. What is known and widely published is Barron Collier’s impact on the town.  He was a wealthy entrepreneur who earned his fortune in a railroad advertising company, making advertising posters to be put up in passenger train cars. After falling in love with Florida, he bought up a million acres in the Everglades with the plan of draining the Everglades and building a highway from Tampa to Miami called the Tamiami Trail in exchange for more land.  He grew the town of Everglade City and paid his workers in script which would only be used in Collier-owned stores. The Tamiami was completed and we saw evidence of the effect on the landscape when the natural flow of water is disrupted. On one side of the road are lovely fields of cattails and on the other, a dying swamp.

We toured the local museum, which is a tribute to Barron Collier.  We then got the other side of the story from the museum director, and none of this info is alluded to at all in the museum.  Because of

About to begin our 9-mile paddle downstream through the
mangroves and back to Salty Paws in Everglades City.

Bill's favorite picture!

Ducking the mangroves in the narrow channel.

the isolation of the Everglades, the “Gladesmen” did whatever they could to make ends meet, legal or otherwise.  In 1983, 300 federal agents surrounded this little island town and arrested every man in the town that could be found, including the mayor. The fisherman, known as saltwater cowboys, had for years been involved in smuggling in contraband, especially marijuana, bundled in packs known as “square grouper,” dropped off in their crab boats from freighters which had come up from South America.  Many spent more than eight years in prison and any that were sentenced to less than eight were considered snitches.  These men are all still living in the town, and this 
history is still too raw to be publicized.  Who knows how they are now making their living!

On our second day in town, Bill contacted Dillon, a kayak outfitter, and arranged for us to be shuttled inland to the headwaters of Halfway Creek.  Dillon assured me that the alligators would not bother us.  I was finally convinced after my usual period of anticipatory terror and sleepless nights. We set off with a map, alone in our tandem kayak.  Within 3 minutes, Bill spotted the first alligator and we quickly saw 3 more. As promised, they each quietly slipped under the water as we approached.  The 8 mile trip was incredible.  The most impressive section was a 2-mile stretch of canopied water with only a few feet to the tangle of mangroves on either side.  Bill paddled while I sat in the bow looking ahead as Bill maneuvered around the hanging vines.  So many birds, such quiet, just awe inspiring.  We did see 1 more alligator in this section, but again, he just slipped into the water.  We will never forget this.

Craps pots are frequent along the West Florida coast and are
typically positioned in strings of multiple traps, each with
a small round buoy.

Now we are off to the Florida Keys!