Bimini Pirates became Entrepreneurs

Map of the Great Loop.

The Great Loop is a 6,000 mile journey around the Eastern United

Our gold burgee indicates that we
have completed the Great Loop.

States and parts of Canada.  The term "crossing one's wake" refers to a boat that has made the full circle as you in theory must cross the wake created by your boat when you first started.  Not many get to cross their wake in the Bahamas and still be 1,500 miles from home. Molly and I on Salty Paws did it this week in Bimini! Three years ago we went down the east coast from Maine to Key Biscayne and crossed to Bimini and other Bahamian points. Then last July, after retiring, we left Maine again and cruised down to NYC and then up the Hudson to complete the rest of the Great Loop. After the Keys we kept a southernly route so as not to cross our wake until reaching Bimini. 

In Bimini one of the first people we met was Ashley Saunders, writer, artist, historian and creator of the Dolphin House made of hand-built walls covered with an eclectic mix of shells, license plates and knickknacks from people across the globe. Ashley has been building the house since 1993 and is the Island's renaissance man.   He described how his ancestors came to Bimini almost 200 years ago. 

Molly in front of the
Dolphin House.

 His father was a descendant of a Scottish pirate and his mother from a former slave.  Bimini was, in fact, a melting pot for the mistreated, adventure seekers, discontents and malcontents as it

One of the rooms at Dolphin House.

was only 50 miles from the US mainland, adjacent to the main shipping channel, semi-lawless and with many shallow coves and mangroves for hiding, if necessary.

Ashley and Molly on the roof of his house.

In the 18^th century pirates were able to attack and plunder ships, and the profession became slightly more respectable in the 19^th century as former pirates become opportunists when ships struck the reefs that dot the Bimini coast.  Ashley described how his great grandfather and his men took control of large wooden cargo ship that had run aground.  He gave the captain the choice of saving the crew in exchange for all the cargo or just leaving the crew and still taking all the cargo.  The goods were brought ashore and made his great grandfather a wealthy man.  Many of the ship’s former crew became island residents. 

Behind Molly is one of the many ships that did not leave
the Bahamas intact.

Nominally under the control of Great Britain, slavery was outlawed here in 1834, and even before that the island beckoned African slaves who had mutinied on boats bound for the US.  In the early 20^th century Bimini attracted foreigners for gambling and booze, particularly during the US prohibition.  People of all nationalities

also came here seeking entry to the US.  While much less prevalent today, there are still stories of American speed boat captains being paid a few thousand dollars a head to bring illegals to the United States.

Before European arrival in the New World, Lucayan Indians populated and prospered in what is now called the Bahamas.  Columbus landed on the now Bahamian island he named San Salvador in 1492, and by 1520 or so Spanish conquest, enslavement and disease stripped the islands of all Lucayans.  Spain maintained nominal control over the islands until ceded them to Great Britain in 1783.  The Islands become independent in 1973.

On the streets in Alice Town.

Bahamian waters have a color unto
their own.

We arrived here on January 19^th and immediately fell in love with North Bimini, and its boroughs of Alice Town, Bailey Town and Porgy Bay.  The residents along the narrow streets greet everyone with a warm hello, and more than one person offered us rides when we were caught by a sudden rain or when we were carrying a donation of supplies to the local primary school.  There is a strong entrepreneurial spirit seen in offers of fresh fish, delivered meals and tours.

Aaron is a great example of this local spirit as he greeted us warmly and suggested that we tour the island museum that he directs. 

Molly with Aaron.  Was he really
the museum director?

He gave us a great tour, and then as I was about to put $10 in the donation box, he suggested that I give it to him directly in that sometime thieves are tempted by this receptacle.   Later, in describing this to another Bahamian, we learned that Aaron is not the director at all!  The tour was still worth the $10.

Here is the Fountain of Youth.

One day we walked virtually every road on the island (9 miles) and also checked out the mega resort development on the north end of the island anchored by a Hilton, casino and marina.  Seemly, hundreds of large 4 and 6 bedroom, 4 .5 bath condominiums are under construction.  There is also a new large pier that will soon attract cruise ships.  We much prefer the

This is the Hilton and some of the
 fancy docks at the northern
end of North Bimini.

 local boroughs with the narrow streets, small shops and eclectic buildings, some still uninhabitable due to multiple hurricanes.

One of the beaches in
South Bimini.

Another day we along with our dockmates on Morning Dew took the $3 ferry to South Bimini , only a ¼ mile across the harbor.  We wanted to find the Fountain of Youth, thought to be the water found by Ponce de Leon in the 16^th century.  Alas, it was only a small well and not much of a legitimate tourist attraction!

Before our trip to Bimini we spend a week in Islamorada on the Keys and became acquainted with the Netflix show Bloodline that was filmed here, including at our marina. 

Snorkeling in the Keys.

While we enjoyed identifying local areas in the show, its dark plot was too much for us.  We did enjoy snorkeling

off John Pennekemp Coral Reef State Park.  Salty Paws then spent two days in Homestead as we prepared for our two months

Enjoying the world's most eclectic fruit stand, Robert was Here,
along with Melissa and Mike.

in the Bahamas.  There we were met by 

Rosborough friends Melissa and Mike who treated us to the local attractions including Robert 

was Here.  Look it up as it is an interesting story!

Looks like Friday (1/24) will be our next weather window, and we hope to reach Morgan’s Bluff, Andros Island, 100 miles away, for a few days before going on to the Exumas.  Andros is one of the poorer islands, and we hope to leave school supplies at two different schools.

We left a box of school supplies with the
principal of Bimini Primary School.

Bimini Elementary School.

Our first morning in the Bahamas.